Black, white and colored

The history of apartheid and what I, as a semi-open minded American, would consider racism was one of the most interesting pieces of my experience in South Africa.  The terms black and colored are used frequently and even though the Capetonians consider themselves inclusive of all races I feel they still have a long way to go regarding equality. After hearing several people refer to others as either black or colored I had to ask what it meant. To me hearing the term colored seems like something one heard in the 50’s and 60’s before the civil rights movement in the United States. In South Africa calling someone black or colored is not considered derogatory; colored is not black but a person of mixed decent and black is black. I couldn’t help but think, aren’t we all “mixed” decent? I’m part Polish, part Russian, a little German and probably a little of something else.

Since Apartheid is such a huge piece of the history I decided to visit Robben Island on my first day. It was very interesting and also a great way to get a tremendous of view of the famous Table Mountain.  BTW, Table Mountain was just admitted into the New 7 wonders of nature. Part of the tour of the island is in the actual jail where people like Nelson Mandela where imprisoned. The tour is led by an ex-prisoner which adds a certain piece of authenticity to the tour.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I continued my journey to understand apartheid and the community by visiting one of the many townships. Townships are scattered across South Africa; they are shantytowns that were started for the black and colored people on the outskirts of cities during apartheid. The townships continue to grow today and people do not pay rent on the land. The township I visited was literally a garbage dump with little tin structures and rudimentary construction. There are convenient stores, bars and even schools built to form entire communities; they have electricity and sewage, but water is typically shared including bathrooms and washing facilities.

 

 

 

 

 

 

December 1 is a good day for museums in Cape Town because unbeknownst to me it was slave emancipation day and all the museums I visited were free. My first stop was the area of Bo-kaap. Bo-kaap is an area near the Cape Town City Center that was once the home to the slaves who were imported to the Cape by the Dutch during the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries. The houses in the area are now brightly colored (and seem to be gentrified) but the small museum told an interesting story of a time in the not so distant past of slavery, apartheid and the history of the area. I also visited the Slave lodge, one of the oldest buildings in Cape town that was once a holding place for the slaves, then Supreme Court, and currently the SA Cultural History Museum.

 

 

 

 

Although Cape Town is very westernized it gave me a good taste of the old and new life in South Africa and left me wanting to return to explore even more of the culture.

Posted in Cape Town, South Africa | Tagged , , , , , , | 1 Comment

Crazy about Proteas & Penguins

My tan will fade and I have to put on shoes as I say farewell to South Africa and hello to Turkey.

I’ve had such a great time in Cape Town that I have found little time to write and update my blog. It’s been fantastic touring the surrounding areas particularly seeing some of the coolest flowers that are native to South Africa. I also fell in love with the Penguins at Boulder Beach. It costs only 45 Rand to enter the beach (about $5.50) and swim around with the little guys.

Enjoy the photos: more about Cape Town in my next post.

Posted in South Africa | 1 Comment

Below the sea

Some things you just have to do….one of those things in Cape Town is visiting The Western Cape; the drive from Cape Town is beautiful through the Dynefontein Mountains and wine vineyards. Our first quick stop on the drive was at Hermanus Beach. Hermanus is popular for land-based whale watching of the southern right whale; a fantastic past time for a short time or if you’re 90. If you remember from my post regarding the “big 5” and “magnificent 7” while on safari;the large whales are considered one of the “Big 2” in the sea in South Africa. We continued up the coast a couple more miles until we finally came to Gansbaai. This sleepy sea village is home to the other animal part of the “Big 2” in the sea.

As we boarded the boat my stomach flipped over with nerves and my mind raced with anticipation. Shark cage diving is not what I do on an average Tuesday. Oh yeah, you heard correctly. Shark cage diving with actual great white sharks! Don’t worry the sharks can’t get into the cage, or at least that’s what I was told while I was signing a two page waiver. As soon as we dropped anchor the skippers on the boat began making chum, I suddenly had a strong desire for sushi. Anyway, we waited and waited and waited. The crew continued to scatter the chum and we patiently waited, and waited and waited. Eventually we picked up anchor and moved to a new spot. The first group of five people climbed into the cage and I stood on the upper deck of the boat ready for the first shark view. Once in the cage the crew threw a large chunk of bait attached to a buoy about 10 feet out from the boat. When a shark got close the crewmember in charge of spotting alerted the divers and then yelled “DOWN!” The crew reeled the bait towards the boat in hopes that the shark would swim really close to the cage. We didn’t have diving equipment, only our breath, when the crew yelled down we pulled ourselves below the surface of the water.

I was in-group two; without hesitation I put on my weight belt, mask and booties and jumped right into the cage. After seeing group one I wasn’t scared just excited to have my turn. We didn’t have as much luck with sightings in the second group; I saw the shark swim by and ignore the bait a few times. Nothing scary, nothing too exciting except that my fingers began to shrivel and freeze. I got out of the cage with a tepid feeling; I thought there should be more sharks and more excitement. The word on the street is that in the summer (which it is now) the water is actually colder and the sharks aren’t as active. Fortunately, there were only four people for the last group and when the crew asked if anyone wanted to go again I jumped at the opportunity. I climbed back into the freezing water to get another look at jaws! This was a great decision because even though I was shivering I had one of the best views of the entire day. At one point Jaws came around for the bait and this time he went for it and came swimming DIRECTLY into the cage. It all happened so quickly, but it was extremely intense. I started screaming under the water when I saw the massive jaws, teeth and eyes about 6” away from my face. The shark swam away quickly and we all surfaced amazed and yelling about the experience. The crew pulled us out of the cage because we had to get into shore while the tide was still high; we stayed on our shark high the entire ride back to Cape Town.

Posted in South Africa | Tagged , , , | 10 Comments

Hakuna Matata, part 2 – a girl on safari

I’m not sure if it was the lack of sleep out of excitement, waking up at 4:45 am, or the 6-hour drive from Johannesburg but the first game drive at Nthambo Tree Camp felt surreal. I had only been in the nature reserve 5 minutes when the guide who was transporting me pointed out a couple of cheetahs. As far as safari virgins go I didn’t have grand expectations, I just told the guide I wanted to see some cool shit.  That all changed once I got a taste of how sweet it is to be surprised one of the big 5!

We drove around in a 4-wheel drive, diesel truck with 3 rows of seats. It was like being on a Disney ride; right down to the washed out roads, roaring elephants and quirky guide with an authentic Afrikan accent.  I was prepared for unbearably hot days and relentless mosquitos but I was pleasantly surprised with cool and sometimes rainy weather. The rain did not ruin my parade though – it actually made for good animal sightings and fun muddy roads with lots of puddles to splash through.

I giggled the first time we saw a herd of elephants munching on tree branches and got a little nervous when one male bull came charging straight for the truck.

At one point my eyes bugged out when a very large white rhino crossed the path right in front of our vehicle and marked his territory with a crazy spray technique.

The Impala are plenty, a deer like animal, always grazing until something startles them. We came across a journey of giraffe and watched as one bucked while a little bird annoyingly pecked at his back! We stopped along our rides to view birds, dung, dung with dung beetles and of course tracks.

Our fearless tracker, Isaac, sat at the helm of our vehicle and skillfully looked for hints, tracks mostly, that could lead to the sought after big 5. The big 5: African buffalo, Lion, Elephant, Leopard, and Rhino. The Magnificent 7 also includes the cheetah and the wild dog. There are plenty of Elephants to see and many had cute little Dumbo like babies following after mom learning how to throw mud, trample trees and defend themselves against other elephants.  We also had no problem finding rhinos. One day we drove through an immense heard of about 25 buffalo that stood grazing; as we slowly drove through the looks on these massive animals made me swear I could hear their thoughts “you stupid people, why are you interrupting our lunch?”

The lion, the cheetah, the wild dog and the leopard…the most elusive to see (in my opinion). We were lucky enough to see two lionesses that had fed off a dead giraffe. The giraffe was a sight on it’s own with the vultures and flies swarming it was surely enough to make anyone’s nostrils burn. I saw the cheetah at the beginning of the trip (if you were paying attention to the beginning of the post). One day, after we had finished breakfast our guide, Ryan, made us quickly jump in the jeep and told us to “hold on”. This was an unscheduled ride, so we knew it had to be good.

We sped away from the camp holding our hats as we flew over the dirt roads. We had to off off road and trample a few bushes to get a good sight of the wild dogs. They were really cute and close the truck, so close that I wanted to reach down and pet them but for obvious reasons I resisted the urge. The three dogs had just fed on something and were lounging in the shade of a tree, one kept getting up and checking things out as dogs often do.

That left me with only the leopard…we tried to see them or him a few different times, often involving hold onto your hat rides. Unfortunately, I left the park empty handed in the leopard department. 6 out of 7 ain’t bad for a few days, just need to go back to complete the list.

Stay tuned for the next post on the BIG 2 from the coast of Cape Town!

Posted in South Africa, Uncategorized | Tagged , | 10 Comments

Hakuna Matata, A day in the life of a girl on safari

To say I had an amazing time would be an understatement. Going on a safari was one of the best experiences I’ve ever had in my life! Since most of my knowledge of a safari came from either; 1. Visiting the pachyderm house at the Denver zoo and going to the Wild Animal Park in San Diego 2. Seeing the movie The Lion King and 3. The safari ride at Disney Land. I really had no idea what to expect when I booked a four-night, five-day safari in Kruger National Park. I knew there would be some rides in a jeep to see some animals but I was blown away by what really happened. Seeing as I’m a hippie at heart I found an “eco camp” in a private reserve within the Greater Kruger Park. Kruger is about a 6-hour drive east from Johannesburg, South Africa. Nthambo camp is a small intimate camp in the Klasari preserve with only 5 tree houses, well not actually tree houses but tents lifted about 15’ above the ground with trees surrounding the area. 

Me, with my morning coffee

This was not roughing it camping; this was a 5-star luxury camping in my opinion. I had a big comfy bed, my own bathroom (with a resident frog), a mosquito net, desk and private deck for yoga and deep thoughts. Ntambo is “off the grid” meaning there is no electricity – only solar power for a few lights in the tents and gas for cooking and hot showers. Because there is a maximum number of 10 guests allowed at any time everyone takes rides and eats together with the guides. I spent the first two nights with a family of 3 from Massachusetts and the last 2 nights with another family of 3 from Australia, a law student from Wash U and a funny woman (who happen to be from Colorado Springs) doing “angel” work near by. 

Cloudy Day view from Tent 4

After we received our morning wake up call at 5am, which consisted of our guide hollering up to our tent, we spent our mornings on game drives. We had a tracker and a driver, but we also had our eyes like bananas – PEELED – looking for everything and anything that moved. There was always a morning coffee break strategically in an open area. Around 9am we went back to camp for breakfast in the communal tent with Ryan, our driver and guide. The communal tent consisted of a sitting area, a small bar, kitchen, dining table, fire pit and a small pool. After breakfast we had the day to lounge, snooze or simply be with our thoughts while we gazed off into the horizon. At 3pm we ate lunch and then went on the afternoon drive. We spent another few hours looking for animals then stopped for a sunset drink aka a sundowner. We continued the drive in the evening where the tracker used a spotlight to look for eyes, shape and movement; it was so cool how he could pick out a little chameleon, in the dark, on a tree while we were zooming past.   We looked for animals who like to roam at night or are nocturnal. We returned around 7:30 where a fire and dinner awaited.  We were always escorted back to our tents since there were no lights and it was impossible to see what could be lurking around a bush waiting for a late night snack!

I promise to tell you more, but I’m sitting in the Joberg airport and I only paid for a few minutes of wireless access to skype with my parents so they know I’m alive after safari. I’m headed south to Cape Town for 10 days, so I should have easier access once I arrive.

Stay tuned for more about the rides and the animals!

Posted in South Africa | Tagged , , | 7 Comments

Hop on, Hop off, shake a little groove tonight!

Yes, I spent 2 days riding around on the Original Big Bus Tour of London. Yeah, yeah totally dorky but totally fulfilled my dream of riding around on a big bus in NY!

I pretty much hit the highlights of London: Big Ben, Parliament, London Bridge, Tower Bridge, City Hall, The London Eye, another bridge, Piccadilly Circus, Harrods, another bridge, Westminster Abbey, Hyde Park, changing of the guard etc. etc. etc. I also shamelessly took the free boat that went on the Thames River. It was all a bit breezy and cheesy and lazy, but I did it and I’m proud!

I busted a groove for about 10 minutes at some lowereastsidegrittyclubishtype establishment after dinner on Saturday night – don’t worry I had on my Al American denims and “trainers” (aka white running shoes). Whatev’s, we were already about 10 years too old for the area so my costume only added humor to the situation!

I’m now in Johannesburg, South Africa and I have a 5:30 am pick up tomorrow morning. I’m heading East to Kruger National Park on a 4 night safari to see the BIG 5! I’ll be staying in a tree chalet among the wild beasts – http://www.nthambo.comI’m pretty sure I’ll be out of internet range, so until next week….

Happy Thanksgiving

Posted in London, United Kingdom | Tagged , , , | 2 Comments

To Bath and beyond…

What do you get when you combine waking up at 7:30 only to realize you’ve woken up an hour late for your pre-paid tour and running to catch the last pickup, a hour audio tour of Stonehenge, followed by an afternoon in Bath with an added bonus of a massive car accident on the highway turning a 2 hour ride into a 4 hour ride back to London, and topped of with a dry run thanksgiving thrown by your generous hosts? This is not a trick question; despite the craziness it was a fantastic yet VERY long freakin’ day!

Stonehenge is cool; I don’t care if the locals turn their nose up and claim it’s just for tourists. It’s really amazing to stand there and think about what went into creating the henge (circle). Awe inspiring to say the least considering when it was built and the tools which were available at that time. I personally liked hearing all the silly theory’s regarding why it was built etc. but my favorite was that the devil had dropped the stones in their place.

Bath is breathless. I wish I would have stayed the night because I only got a taste while running around trying to take in as much as possible and avoiding the shoppers on the busy main streets. I loved turning the corner and being on a 17th century street narrow enough for just a small cart or horse to maneuver. I lost track of time in the Roman Spa Bath museum, and I even stopped to get a complimentary glass of the all-healing water after my visit. I drank the whole the whole glass even though it tasted funky and was very warm. I felt stronger and healthier until I was totally grossed out when the woman dumped unfinished water back into the same spout from which the water was pouring…if, at any point, my semi-germaphobness lifts you’ll be the first to know!

Sadly we were herded back onto the bus only to be stuck in 4 hours of stopped traffic due to a motorcycle accident. In the end I was greeted back in Regents Park by a lively preparation of a Thanksgiving dry run. Cooking Thanksgiving in London isn’t as easy as it sounds. Goods have to be shipped in and packages cost 10 times as much as what’s actually inside such as; canned cranberry and canned pumpkin. Anyway, we had Thanksgiving with a chicken instead of turkey, rice instead of stuffing and chocolate bars in place of pie. Even though it was a few days early without my family, it was a great way to spend thanksgiving.

Posted in London, United Kingdom | 1 Comment

3 Days in the North: Manchester & Ed-in-Bra

After spending a few days in London, I took a train North to Manchester. Jamie, my sorority sister, greeted me at the train station. If you are shocked and wondering how you didn’t know I was in a sorority, get over it! Admit I turned out pretty well and realize that it was 15 years ago. Manchester…where, btw, the atom was split for the first time, is a bustling city. Jamie (and Matt) moved to Manchester about 3 months for Matt’s job. Besides Jamie and Matt, what’s in Manchester you ask? Well, there is a gothic style city hall currently housing a very large santa, a library with a scrap of paper which claim’s to be from the Old Testament and of course a lot of pubs. So, as they say “when in Rome…” We got a pint after some touring of the city and drank outside observing the crazy Manchester-ites. The observation was based strictly on the fact that the people were by enlarge wearing either short sleeve shirts or very little clothing. As a native Coloradoan, and now seasoned New Yorker, I cannot get over the lack of clothing worn throughout most of the UK considering the temperature this time of year. I’m not sure if it’s A. because they are as they say “pist” (not pissed off but pisst meaning drunk, wasted or hammered) and that’s why they don’t need to bundle up or B. they are simply a rare breed of humans who are able to withstand the cold in order to drink, smoke and socialize with other super humans outside at the local pub.Jamie and I also visited a local museum, a pop-up Christmas themed bar, the locks and Chinatown (supposedly the largest in the UK).

Before I tell you about our jaunt to Edinburgh, you should be aware that only Americans pronounce Edinburgh like Ed-in-borough. I learned, it’s really pronounced Ed-in-bra. We took the 3-hour train ride from Manchester to Edinburgh and even though there are limited snacks on the ride I would highly suggest this mode of transportation. The train ride helps get you in the mood with it’s rolling green hills dotted with fuzzy sheep and sounds of the bagpipe playing off in the distance.

Edinburgh is one of those places you hear about but it’s not until you actually step out of the station that one can really appreciate its beauty. The city is built up along a huge rocky mountain, there are multiple levels of stairways, facades and surfaces. Unfortunately, we did Edinburgh in 27 short hours. Since we only took a few for sleeping, we jammed a lot into the other remaining hours. Jamie is riot and likes to take silly pictures just like me so a lot of time was spent doing that amongst the magical scenery.

The down and dirty from our trip to Edin-bra: The Castle – pretty hard to miss (caught the one o’clock canon firing, and had a midnight viewing). The Holyrod Palace, Cahill Hill, pronouncing ED-in-BrA, pointing out all the bright red hairstyles,debating if it’s true what they say about the lack of undergarments worn with a kilt, Dean Brodie’s Pub, Fishers in the City on Thistle and Hanover for salmon and other fishy delights, The Wiski Room (10 year old whiskey that was 40% alcohol- yowzer) and a late night cruise through Ramsey Garden.

Thanks Jamie (and Matt even though you weren’t there) for being an amazing hostess, The Real Mary King’s Close wouldn’t have been the same without you!

Posted in Edinburgh, United Kingdom | Tagged , , | 2 Comments

The only way is…

Essex! Yes, I’ve come part of the way around the world to watch trash TV. Please find a way to watch the British show, The Only Way is Essex, it’s f’in hilarious. Granted, I couldn’t understand half the things they were saying but between the instant replay and a native translator I was rolling on the floor in laughter!

I did see some more London-esque sights, like Big Ben and the Parliament. Apparently though driving around the round-a-bout saying “kids, Big Ben the Parliament…” is only funny to Americans. After getting the subway card stuck in the little machine (Yes, I got the card stuck. Contrary to a NY attendant the lady at the subway was so helpful; she politely explained how I did it incorrectly and helped me retrieve my jammed card.)  From there I was able to navigate my way around the tube to the Waterloo station where I cruised the Thames and popped into the Tate Modern.  I walked the Millennium bridge at dusk, which btw happens at 4:30 – seriously annoying. Yesterday was a brilliant day though in London, blue skies and warm in the sun – until 4:30. Then the fog and mist rolled in and my hair went to shit. Tangent…Ok, that’s a lie -it’s been shit since I got here. I miss my deva products but I’m learning to deal! I have also started to love real deodorant! Yes, the kind with the nasty aluminum that supposedly causes cancer in the pits. It may be cancer causing, but when you want/need to wear the same shirt multiple days it does wonders for upkeep.
Notting Hill, Fringe Theater, a pub, Portabello Road, Abbey Road, another pub for a pint (or two), a traditional English Sunday Roast and the football match England vs Espana. I saw, I drank, I ate and now I’m in Manchester.

Posted in London, United Kingdom | Tagged , , , , | 1 Comment

Travelin’ light “ish”

Surfas-ing in London

As Widespread Panic once sang, Travlin’ light is the only way to fly….

I tried. I really, really tried. Although my amazing space planning skills really paid off, I left zero square inches to spare and I weighed in at roughly 185 lbs (including myself and all the clothes on my back). I was the girl with five baskets going through security. Plus, I managed to slip through with multiple no no’s including but not limited to: a Swiss army knife, multiple bottles of various liquids, and a nail scissor.

I didn’t get so lucky at the gate; they forced me (and many others) to check bags. I had to quickly find my sleeping pills for the second over night leg of the trip and do a  shuffle of my belongings.  The flight to London was breezy; I watched a stupid movie, and fell asleep with ease.

Getting to Molly’s was a different story. London connect – check. Brown line on the tube – check. Actual building address – oops. Luckily for me I have a nose for finding posh café’s where people are kind enough to sift through American and British coins to determine how many you need for a latte, they print out maps for you and eventually let you borrow a phone to ring your friend.

So I made it to London. I’m sure jet lag will kick in soon, but first we’re off for a pint. Is it gluten free when it’s a pint or will I have to stick to cider and hope all goes well?!

In case you’re wondering I had a massive case of the nerves today while driving to the airport with my parents. It was like the feeling I get right before going over a drop while skiing. It’s a mixture of being slightly scared and slightly exhilarated. This must be the same. It’s scary looking over the edge, but once I go off I’ll have an amazing ride and want to do it again and again.

before        after

 

Posted in United Kingdom | 2 Comments